Frequently Asked Questions

The “Promise Date” on our acknowledgement is the date in which we intend to ship your order. You should receive, via email or fax, an acknowledgement for every order. Our invoices are automatically generated the day your order has shipped. If you have received a fax or email copy of your invoice you know your order has shipped. If you do not currently receive acknowledgement and invoices via fax or email please contact Customer Service to implement. In addition, open orders and recent invoices can be seen on your dealer page of our web site.

Our invoices are automatically generated the day your order is shipped. If you have received a fax or email copy of your invoice you know your order has shipped. If you do not currently receive invoices via fax or email please contact Customer Service to implement. Recent invoices can also be viewed on your dealer page of our web site.

The Pro or tracking number for your order is on the top of the body of your invoice. The carrier is in the header information under the title of “ship via”. Go to the carrier’s website or call L.B. White Customer Service.

You can do one of two things. You can remove the thermostat from its mounting bracket on the heater, install a junction box on the heater and wire the heater from the junction box to the remote thermostat. Video or instruction sheet?

OR

You can use what is called an in-line thermostat on all heaters with unit mounted thermostats. This thermostat is part # 09454 and consists of a piggy back cord set. You plug the power cord of the heater into one side of the cord set. The other side plugs into an extension cord or directly to wall outlet. The cord is 20 ft long so you can hang the thermostat wherever you want. Make sure to turn the thermostat on the heater up to its highest setting.

No. The heater is a non-vented design meaning that in the combustion process Carbon Monoxide (CO) is discharged into the building along with the heated air. The heater is normally used in animal confinement buildings where ventilation is accomplished through fans and inlets to provide acceptable indoor air quality for the animal and workers. In a shop or garage the necessary ventilation is typically not present. If a non-vented heater is used in garage or shop installations without proper ventilation, CO levels can accumulate and cause distress to people up to and including death. It is best to use a vented style furnace such as those made by Reznor, Modine, Lennox, etc.

We do not offer kits to accomplish this conversion nor do we recommend it due to the cost of material and labor involved. It is more economical to purchase a new heater with the desired ignition.

No. The pilot ignition heater is not designed for outside use. Strong winds could potentially extinguish the pilot flame. If an outdoor mounted heater is desired, it is best to install either a hot surface ignition heater or spark ignition heater.

Depends on if LP or NG, and the model / configuration number of heater. Heaters can operate at different pressures regardless of fuel, so it’s best to get all information from the data plate. As a general rule if LP gas, the inlet pressure, with burner on, is a minimum of 11 in. W.C .to a maximum of 13.5 inches W.C. Burner manifold pressure is 10 in. W.C.

If NG the requirements are a minimum of 7 in WC to 13.5 in. W.C., with a manifold pressure of 4.0 in. W.C.

You must use a pressure gauge. You can’t tell by looking at the burner if the pressure is correct. L.B. White sells low pressure test kits, but if you are not comfortable with the procedure, contact your L.B. White distributor or gas provider to check the pressure for you.

We need to get specifics of the building such as length, width, wall height, type of animals, ventilations rates, insulation types and thickness. With that we can calculate heat load and determine size and quantity of heaters.

Regarding the pipe size, we need to know if LP or NG, distances from gas supply to building, and distances between heaters in order to make a recommendation.

A simple sketch of the building, gas supply, and heater layout is beneficial in making this determination.

Most of our heaters may be washed on the external case using low pressure water. When cleaning the internals of the heater, use air pressure, or a soft brush or rag. Refer to the on-line heater Owner’s Manual for specifics regarding cleaning.

Yes, however, the regulator must be vented to the outside. Always run a vent line from the regulator back to the outside. The vent line must be the same size as the regulator vent. If that regulator should ever overpressure due to failure, the gas will be vented inside the building, where it can be ignited by the heating equipment. Contact a licensed gas service person for assistance.

• Take the known heat output of the heater, expressed in Btu/h and divide that by 21591, which is the Btu in one pound of propane.
  • Example: 250,000 Btu/h Guardian 250 = 11.57 pounds of gas per hour 21,591

• To determine gallons of propane used per hour, take usage in pounds and divide by 4.24 (pounds of propane per gallon.)
  • 11.57 pounds per hour = 2.73 gallons of propane liquid per hr. 4.24 pounds per gallon

• To get total load: Number of heaters x pounds or gallons per hour

We offer three forms of ignition: pilot, hot surface, and spark. There are pros and cons to all. It all comes down to personal preference.

• The advantage of pilot is that it is simple to work on and many people are familiar with it. The disadvantage is that the pilot light must always be burning, thereby wasting gas.
• Hot surface ignition and spark ignition are electronic. These forms of ignition do not waste fuel. The heaters use what we call “Service Saver“ technology which monitors heater operation and by means of a diagnostic light tells you what the potential problem is in the event of heater failure.
  • Heaters with electronic ignition can be mounted outside using the appropriate outdoor mounting kits. This allow fresh air to be drawn in for combustion
  • The only “con’” to hot surface ignition is that the igniter will fail at some point, not a case of if, but when. It’s kind of like a light bulb in that respect.
  • Regarding spark ignition heaters, the igniter is extremely reliable. A simple cleaning with emery cloth or steel wool is all that is needed to keep the igniter operational. 

Yes. Kits are available. Contact your local dealer or L.B. White Factory for the correct kit.

13.5 inches of water column (w.c.)

Yes, you’ll need a second stage regulator if the supply pressure is more than .5 psi (13.5 in. w.c.)

The owner’s manual has specific instructions for gas conversion. It basically involves positioning the fuel selector valve in the gas specific position.

Low supply gas pressure or the heater burner manifold pressure is too low.

The heater was shut down either by thermostat or manually and now it has enter the cool down mode (90 seconds).

Burner is preheating the heat exchanger. After 60 seconds, the main motor/fan will operate.

It will accommodate up to 100 ft. via the duct is layout straight.

Minimum of 5 ft. vertical run and rain cap must be installed.

A duct kit that recirculate the room temperature air back through the heater.

A minimum of 500 gallon tank.

The hose size will be dictated by the supply pressure and distance the heater is away from the gas supply tank.

No.

Yes.

Either the control board is in lock out mode, or one of the high limit switches is tripped.

Yes, order remote hook-up kit 500-131261.

No, use only fuel oil #1 or #2 (diesel fuel)

If the operating temperature drop below 20°F (-7°C)

Yes, up to 100 ft. per outlet.

Moving the heater onsite with fuel in the tank is acceptable, but not for transporting between sites.

No. The heater is a non-vented design meaning that in the combustion process Carbon Monoxide (CO) is discharged into the building along with the heated air. The heater is normally used in animal confinement buildings where ventilation is accomplished through fans and inlets to provide acceptable indoor air quality for the animal and workers. In a shop or garage the necessary ventilation is typically not present. If a non-vented heater is used in garage or shop installations without proper ventilation, CO levels can accumulate and cause distress to people up to and including death. It is best to use a vented style furnace such as those made by Reznor, Modine, Lennox, etc.

We do not offer kits to accomplish this conversion nor do we recommend it due to the cost of material and labor involved. It is more economical to purchase a new heater with the desired ignition.

No. The pilot ignition heater is not designed for outside use. Strong winds could potentially extinguish the pilot flame. If an outdoor mounted heater is desired, it is best to install either a hot surface ignition heater or spark ignition heater.

The heater lasts longer as it’s not exposed to the corrosive barn environment. The air flowing through the heater is fresh, outside air. Another advantage of outdoor installation is having the heater out of the way. Also, since the heater is outside, maintenance and repair can be done without entering the building, reducing bio security concerns.

Depends on if LP or NG, and the model / configuration number of heater. Heaters can operate at different pressures regardless of fuel, so it’s best to get all information from the data plate. As a general rule if LP gas, the inlet pressure, with burner on, is a minimum of 11 in. W.C .to a maximum of 13.5 inches W.C. Burner manifold pressure is 10 in. W.C.

If NG the requirements are a minimum of 7 in WC to 13.5 in. W.C., with a manifold pressure of 4.0 in. W.C.

You must use a pressure gauge. You can’t tell by looking at the burner if the pressure is correct. L.B. White sells low pressure test kits, but if you are not comfortable with the procedure, contact your L.B. White distributor or gas provider to check the pressure for you.

We need to get specifics of the building such as length, width, wall height, type of animals, ventilations rates, insulation types and thickness. With that we can calculate heat load and determine size and quantity of heaters.

Regarding the pipe size, we need to know if LP or NG, distances from gas supply to building, and distances between heaters in order to make a recommendation.

• A simple sketch of the building, gas supply, and heater layout is beneficial in making this determination.

Most of our heaters may be washed on the external case using low pressure water. When cleaning the internals of the heater, use air pressure, or a soft brush or rag. Refer to the on-line heater Owner’s Manual for specifics regarding cleaning.

Yes, however, the regulator must be vented to the outside. Always run a vent line from the regulator back to the outside. The vent line must be the same size as the regulator vent. If that regulator should ever overpressure due to failure, the gas will be vented inside the building, where it can be ignited by the heating equipment. Contact a licensed gas service person for assistance.

Take the known heat output of the heater, expressed in Btu/h and divide that by 21591, which is the Btu in one pound of propane.

• Example: 250,000 Btu/h Guardian 250 = 11.57 pounds of gas per hour 21,591

To determine gallons of propane used per hour, take usage in pounds and divide by 4.24 (pounds of propane per gallon.)

• 11.57 pounds per hour = 2.73 gallons of propane liquid per hr. 4.24 pounds per gallon

To get total load: Number of heaters x pounds or gallons per hour

We offer three forms of ignition: pilot, hot surface, and spark. There are pros and cons to all. It all comes down to personal preference.

• The advantage of pilot is that it is simple to work on and many people are familiar with it. The disadvantage is that the pilot light must always be burning, thereby wasting gas.
• Hot surface ignition and spark ignition are electronic. These forms of ignition do not waste fuel. The heaters use what we call “Service Saver “ technology which monitors heater operation and by means of a diagnostic light tells you what the potential problem is in the event of heater failure.
  • Heaters with electronic ignition can be mounted outside using the appropriate outdoor mounting kits. This allow fresh air to be drawn in for combustion
  • The only “con’” to hot surface ignition is that the igniter will fail at some point, not a case of if, but when. It’s kind of like a light bulb in that respect.
  • Regarding spark ignition heaters, the igniter is extremely reliable. A simple cleaning with emery cloth or steel wool is all that is needed to keep the igniter operational.

Yes. Kits are available. Contact your local dealer or L.B. White Factory for the correct kit.

On Hot surface ignition heaters, check for 24 VAC to the limit and through the limit when the fan motor starts for the second time after igniter warm up.

• On spark heaters check for the same when igniter sparks.

If you have 24VAC to it but not through it, then the limit is tripped or defective.

There might be a break in the wiring that connects the output side of the limit to the rectifier plug that connects the limit to the gas control valve.

• Replace the rectifier plug wire.

The Smart Sense gas control operates on DC volts. The rectifier plug takes the 24 VAC from the limit switch and changes it within the plug to 24 VDC.

This allows operation at minimum heat

• To get beyond the minimum heat you must supply a signal from the environment control to the heater’s signal conditioner to allow increase heat output from minimum to increased heat output.

First make sure the signal conditioner is receiving the 0-10 VDC signal from the environment controller.

Then check to make sure the 20 VA transformer is receiving 120 VAC and suppling 24 VAC to the signal conditioner.

• If it is receiving 120 VAC but not supplying 24 VAC the transformer is defective.

If the heater is receiving main power (120 VAC) check to make sure the transformer is receiving that same voltage.

• If it is, check for 24 VAC output from the transformer.
  • If no 24 VAC output, replace the transformer.
• If transformer is supplying 24 VAC, check for 24 VAC at terminal W on the controller. Check for defective wires or defective thermostat.

Then check to make sure the 20 VA transformer is receiving 120 VAC and suppling 24 VAC to the signal conditioner.

• If it is receiving 120 VAC but not supplying 24 VAC the transformer is defective.

No, we do not supply kits to retrofit a standard Guardian heater to Smart Sense. The specific Smart Sense heater must be ordered.

The Industrial 250 has a standing pilot light.

We have the Torchman 500 with a tubular steel head. It can be easily held without arm or hand fatigue.

No. This torch is designed for direct connection to a cylinder without the use of a gas regulator. It comes with the POL fitting for direct connection and will supply heat based upon whatever the cylinder size will provide.

The heaters require 5 PSI gas pressure for either LP or NG gas.

We offer two zone panels. One is medium capacity, the other is high capacity.

The medium capacity handles 14 LP gas heaters. The high capacity can handle 40.
Suggestion: Install just the one high capacity panel. You’ll save money and you only need to manage one panel.

It is best to use one regulator for each zone of heat in order to have the best control of gas pressures. As an example, if only one regulator is used for 3 zones, the regulator has to try and control all the gas pressure when one zone comes on and the other cycles off. Some heaters will wind up burning hotter than others.

Watch videos:
"How to Clean a Manual Ignition Brooder Heater"
"How to Clean a Spark Ignition Brooder Heater"

• Best to use air pressure.
• Turn off the gas, remove the filter and blow off with air.
• Insert the air pressure nozzle in the air housing and blow air down through the cone end.
• Reverse the process and blow air from the cone end back through the air housing end.
• Repeat this process until dust is no longer emitter. Always end up blowing dust from the cone end.
• You can also use water, but for manual ignition heaters only.
• Use standard faucet pressure with a nozzle and rinse out the cone area and run water from the cone end to the control end.
• Then reverse the process and run water from the control end to the cones.
• Do this several times until dirt is no longer observed. Always end up running the water from the cone end to the control end.
• When done shake the heater off and light the heater to dry it out.

It depends on what size brooder you are installing and the animal.

Pigs:
I-17: 4-8 feet from center of heater and above the animal height.

Chickens:
I-17, I-40: 8-12 ft. from center and 6-12 inches above the ground.

Clearances are provided on a label to the air housing where the filter is attached. Nonetheless clearances are as follows;
Sides: 3 feet
Top of heater: 3 feet
Point of combustion cone to floor;

• I-17: 3.5 ft.
• I-40: 4.5 ft.

We offer conversion kits. The conversion kit will consist of a replacement air housing assembly with orifices and register plate installed. Also a replacement data plate and instructions. Like the burner orifices, the air register plate is of different size for LP or NG for the specific heater size, and must be correctly installed for proper operation.

That depends on how many heaters you are installing.

As a general rule the line from the zone panel to where it branches off to feed the brooders is ¾ inch. The gas line to which the heaters are connected is ½ in. However, it depends on the design of the building, and spacing of heaters. A simple sketch showing heater placement and distances can help us recommend piping size.

Make sure the heater’s control end (end where gas comes in) is 1-5 degrees down from horizontal. You might have to adjust the key ring on the heater’s hanging bracket to achieve this (view installation diagram).

Don’t use any line or ropes in hanging the heater. Use only noncombustible chain or cable.

Ensure the gas hose, (and if electronic ignition, the heater’s power cord) are routed away from the heater’s shroud. Neither the hose nor the power cord are to be tied to the chain or cable.

The problem is either incorrect sensor placement, or not enough heaters.

You want to have the sensor away from cold end walls. Try and locate it to another area within the heat zone of one of the heaters.

Make sure you have enough heaters especially at cold end walls.

You must use a pressure gauge (watch video). You can’t tell by looking at the cones if the heater is operating at the correct pressure. L.B. White sells low pressure test kits, but if you are not comfortable with the procedure, contact your L.B. White distributor or gas provider to check the pressure for you.

The owner’s manual has specific instructions for gas conversion. LP and NG orifices are provided with all heaters. It basically involves replacing one orifice with the other and reversing the brass pressure plug also provided with each heater.

Air is best. For general cleaning when heavy dust accumulations are not observed, just use a back pack type blower and blow air directly at the emitter, through the main burner holes. For heavy accumulations of dust, a soft bristle brush along with compressed air works well.

Check for proper gas pressure and for the proper fuel being supplied to the heater.

Poor gas pressure or the heater needs cleaning.

The air pressure switch isn’t closing for some reason.

• Check for blockages in the air inlet.
  • If the inlet is through the attic check for insulation in the inlet pipe.
  • If through a side wall, make sure frost or a bird’s nest is not blocking the inlet tube.
  • No kinks in air inlet flex tube.
• Make sure the flapper at the discharge end tube is lifting and dropping freely.
• Check for damaged gaskets of the burner box, blocked pressure switch orifices.
• Ensure the fan motor starts.
  • If not starting check for 120 VAC from terminal IND on the ignition control.
  • If the control is sending 120 VAC to the motor, it is either a bad wire at the motor or a defective motor.

The L.B. White tube heaters are designed for poultry (chicken/turkey) confinement application only. The heaters are non-vented only, and are not designed to be vented. In the poultry buildings there is always air exchange. A shop or garage does not have this air exchange arrangement.

Make sure the second stage of the gas control valve is receiving 24 VAC from the temperature control. If the valve is receiving 24VAC to its HI heat terminal, then possible the gas control is defective.

A general cleaning using a back pack blower is normally sufficient for cleaning.

Make sure the reflectors are secured and overlap each other.

Check for any damaged gas hoses that exhibit nicks or cuts in the hose material.

• If found replace (DO NOT repair) the hose assembly.

Ensure the final tube flapper lifts and falls freely.

Ensure reflector supports and hangers are secure and that reflectors do not sag.

Normally, it would be a 3 flash light code. This is because this code identifies ignition failure, which has to do with many issues:

• Possibly low fuel pressure, gas valves shut off, a defective gas control valve in the burner box, a defective spark igniter, or a defective ignition cable, or ignition controller not sending spark voltage to the igniter.

If the heater is receiving main power (120 VAC) check to make sure the transformer is receiving that same voltage.

• If it is, check for 24 VAC output from the transformer.
  • If no 24 VAC output, replace the transformer.
• If transformer is supplying 24 VAC, check for 24 VAC at terminal W on the controller. Check for defective wires or defective thermostat.

Connect an extension cord of your desired length to the thermostat and then to the heater.

The high limit switch may have tripped or 24VAC may not be supplied from the control board.

Yes. You can connect a short extension cord to the heater then plug your inline thermostat to the extension cord. Make sure to switch the thermostat toggle switch to “MANUAL”.

The high limit switch is located underneath the combustion chamber. See more detail at https://youtu.be/ihb6BZyIRAw

The pigtail power cord has been replaced with a male three-prong receptacle. This way customer can use whatever length extension cord they want.

@40°F, 20 lbs. propane cylinder at minimum

@40°F, 9 hours continuous running

As standard, the maximum length is 12 feet. The duct must be 8 inches in diameter.

On average about 125-130°F rise over ambient.

As standard, the maximum length is 12 feet. That duct must be 12 inches in diameter.

Yes, but we must supply an orifice that rerates the heat output for altitudes above 2,000 feet to 6,000 feet. When you are placing your order, notify Customer Service so the heater can be appropriately deviated at the factory.

A commonly used heater is the Tradesman series, LP or NG, as this is a lower profile heater and can fit under a deck tennis court easily. However, as with any heater, clearances to combustibles must be strictly adhered to. Also some accessories that are provided with the heater might not be required due to the specific installation. (eg: hoses, regulators). Refer to your owner's manual for installation and application guidelines.

We also have the Premier series which can be located under the deck, provided the deck is sufficiently high enough off the ground to accept the overall height of the heater. If not, the heaters can be located outside/around the deck and with the heat ducted under the deck using our duct.

Plan for the coldest temperatures that are likely during the event. Check out our free heat calculator tool: https://www.lbwhite.com/heater-app/

A maximum of three (3) 12 ft. x 18 in. (3.65 m x 46 cm) flex ducts can be used per heater. Use only one (1) 12 ft. x 18 in. (3.7 m x 48 cm) flex duct per heater when using an end diffuser. Up to 100 ft. of inflatable duct can be used for air distribution with up to two (2) 12 ft. x 18 in. (3.65 m x 46 cm) flex ducts. See Installation of Heater section of owner's manual for further detail on duct installation and setup.

All generally have a 120F rise in temperature over the surrounding air.

30 amps starting and 14 in continuous operation. You may use a standard 20 amp breaker at the job site as the start-up amps drop immediately.

It depends on the heat load and temperature. The larger the heat load and colder the temperature the sooner the cylinder will diminish in pressure.

In colder temperatures it’s always best to use larger cylinders or tanks. If larger cylinders are not available, you can manifold several smaller cylinders together using a manifold set from an LP gas equipment supply source

Because these units are used for temporary heating applications we do not recommend converting them. However, kits are available for special situations. Contact your local dealer or L.B. White Factory for approval and the correct kit.

Light the heater and then while holding the heater’s handle, tilt it over until it almost is at floor level. The heater’s burner flame should shut down.
If it doesn’t the tip switch is defective.

Yes. The heater will work properly with that gas supply size cylinder.

It is best to use a 100 lb. cylinder.

To determine pounds per hour of gas usage

• Divide the known heat output of the appliance (btu/h) by 21,548
  • 21,548 is btu per pound of LP
  • Example:
    • 125,000 btu/h Sunblast ÷ 21,548 btu per pound = 5.80 lbs./hour
  • To determine gallons per hour of usage
    • Take pounds per hour of gas use ÷ pounds per gallon of LP
      • Example:
        • Sunblast 125 uses 5.80 lbs./hour
        • Divide 5.80 by 4.20 (pounds /gallon) or 125,000 ÷ 91,502 (btu/gallon of LP)
          • Answer: 1.38 gallons/hour if non-stop running

No the heater is designed for LP use only.

No, there are not any conversion kits.
You must order the proper heater for the fuel being used.

Make sure you allow sufficient time to allow the thermocouple to warm up. (normally 30 seconds)

On Sunblast 125, make sure the pilot orifice is not plugged and the pilot flame is impinging on the thermocouple.

Ensure the thermocouple is securely connected in the safety valve.

Test the tip switch to make sure it is not open.

• Check with a ohm meter to ensure a closed circuit.

If you are using a full LP cylinder, then possibly the safety control valve is defective.

Plugged burner orifice

Low fuel pressure

Gas supply valve not fully open or low LP level in cylinder.

You need to get information regarding the green house and input it into our heat calculator. This form will automatically calculate the amount of heaters needed for the specific installation.

The standard series uses galvanized steel, which is very good for rust protection. The Plus series adds on an epoxy primer with powder coat finish for further protection.

The Plus series has a two stage gas control valve which interfaces to a two stage thermostat or building controller. This allows the heater to operate at either minimum heat or maximum heat, depending on temperature requirements. This can save fuel and gives a more even temperature. The standard series has a single stage gas control which opens to full output on a call for heat.

The Plus series also incorporates a selector switch allowing you to either heat or ventilate, which is just operating the fan motor only. This can be helpful when just air movement is needed.

Generally, it is best to go outside wherever possible. It does not take up any inside room, simplifies the installation while at the same time reducing the cost. However you should consider the area of the country where the heater will be located, warmer versus colder temps in the winter time, the time of the year the heater will be used, and type of plants to be grown.

The Therma Grow 120 can. We have specific kits for gas conversion. The Therma Grow 220 is not convertible due to the differences between the heater’s base and heat chamber for the specific gas being burned.

The Therma Grow 120 has a throw of 50-55 ft. The Therma Grow 220 has a throw of 90-95 ft. This is achieved when using an air discharge accessory which assists in channeling the air throw of the heater.

Although the heater burns very cleanly, and exceeds the requirements of the testing standard to which it is approved, it is still a non vented heater. If there is not proper air supply and exchange created for the heater, combustion suffers and by products of combustion can increase in the greenhouse.

These are the two common voltages found in greenhouses. When ordering specify the correct voltage for your installation.

The Therma Grow is designed, tested, and approved to a specific standard for green house heating, which is CSA International Requirements 1.95 US. This standard is specific to gas fired heaters used in greenhouses. What all this means is that the heater must meet or exceed the U.S Greenhouse Standards for heater discharge of combustion by products such as CO, CO2, NO2, and Ethylene. The standards are very stringent requiring that the heaters allow a very safe environment for people and plants.

This makes it the only heater in the market approved specifically for greenhouse heating.

Yes, regardless of plant type, when properly installed and proper air exchange is supplied.

Yes you may, but you must be mindful of the plants that are being grown. Where the Therma Grow can be used for any and all plant varieties, heaters like the AW250 might only be used for specific plants that can accept higher levels of combustion by-products. A test using a sample plant to see the affects might help.

Both the Therma Grow 120 and 220 have approximately a 120 F rise in temperature over the surrounding air. ( If the heater is mounted outside with a temperature of 10F, the outlet air will be on average 130 F)

Watch video: "2-Stage Therma Grow Thermostat Connection"

The Tradesman 400 is not convertible to NG. It is designed for LP gas only.

All Premier series heaters are design certified for outside use. We offer ducting as an accessory to transport the warm air from outside to the inside.

When ordering service parts, you need to be sure that you are referring to a parts diagram for your specific heater. The website allows you to key in the full model and configuration number (found on the heater data plate) to look up the owner’s manual and parts list.

It depends on the heat load and temperature. The larger the heat load and colder the temperature the sooner the cylinder will diminish in pressure. In colder temperatures it’s always best to use larger cylinders or tanks.

If larger cylinders are not available, you can manifold several smaller cylinders together using a manifold set from an LP gas equipment supply source.

No. The heater is not designed to be used in an enclosed area without ventilation to provide adequate air exchange. Without proper ventilation, CO levels can build to unsafe levels for people, causing distress and even death.

No, the heater’s discharge temperature is extremely hot. The only heaters that can be used with ducting are the Premier series.

No. These heaters are not designed nor approved for this application. The heaters to use are the Premier heaters. These heaters are designed specifically for tent heating applications.

A commonly used heater is the Tradesman series, LP or NG, as this is a lower profile heater and can fit under a deck tennis court easily. However, as with any heater, clearances to combustibles must be strictly adhered to. Also some accessories that are provided with the heater might not be required due to the specific installation. (eg: hoses, regulators). Refer to your owner's manual for installation and application guidelines.

We also have the Premier series which can be located under the deck, provided the deck is sufficiently high enough off the ground to accept the overall height of the heater. If not, the heaters can be located outside/around the deck and with the heat ducted under the deck using our duct.

Typically, for extended use, we suggest a 500 gallon tank due to the gas usage rate of the heater, which is 18. 5 pounds per hour. Otherwise, you might consider manifolding three 100 # cylinders together if using a tank is not possible.

It depends on the model. If it’s a Tradesman 100, then no, because that heater does not have an electronic ignition system that automatically starts the heater. However you can use what is called an in line thermostat on all other Tradesman LP or NG heaters. This thermostat is part # 09454 and consists of a piggy back cord set. You plug the power cord of the heater into one side of the cord set. The other side plugs into an extension cord or directly to wall outlet. The cord is 20 ft long so you can hang the thermostat wherever you want. Make sure to turn the thermostat on the heater up to its highest setting.

• Take the known heat output of the heater, expressed in Btu/h and divide that by 21591, which is the BTU in one pound of propane.
• Example: 400,000 Btu/h Tradesman 400 = 18.5 pounds of gas per hour 21,591
• To determine gallons of propane used per hour, take usage in pounds and divide by 4.24 (pounds of propane per gallon.)
• 18.5 pounds per hour = 4.36 gallons of propane liquid per hour 4.24 pounds per gallon
• To get total load: Number of heaters x pounds or gallons per hour

You can use #1 or #2 fuel oil (diesel). These fuels don’t burn as cleanly as kerosene so some maintenance related issues such as plug fouling, might arise. Also you might notice a strong smell by burning the other fuel, so ventilation may need to be increased.

• Tradesman K75: 5 / .57
• Tradesman K125: 10 / .95
• Tradesman K170: 13 / 1.3
• Tradesman K210: 13 / 1.6
• Tradesman K400: 29 /3.0
• Tradesman K650: 50 / 4.9

No. The outlet temperature is extremely hot. Also the safety switch within the heater would be activated thereby shutting the heater down.

No, our convection heaters are designed for a single fuel type and cannot be converted with a kit. When natural gas is the available fuel, a Workman 100 NG Plus is recommended.